Hi, New guy here. I recently picked up a Ruger GP 4 inch blue Mag. I also picked up up the necessary things to do a trigger job on it from Mcarbo. The YouTube video was great. I followed it.
|Published (Last):||13 November 2009|
|PDF File Size:||5.3 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||12.15 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
Hi, New guy here. I recently picked up a Ruger GP 4 inch blue Mag. I also picked up up the necessary things to do a trigger job on it from Mcarbo.
The YouTube video was great. I followed it. I did the disassembly, polishing, and reassembly with the new Mcarbo springs. It all went well until I installed the trigger group back into the frame. Now the trigger does not have full range of motion. The trigger mechanism is hanging up somewhere. I removed the trigger group from the frame and took it all apart and checked everything and it looked OK.
I put it back to gather and tested it to see if was hanging up outside of the frame by itself. I have had it in and out of the frame about 6 times. Still no go. Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks for the reply! I was thinking that might be the issue. Like I said earlier the trigger seems to work like it should when the trigger group is out of the frame. You may have switched the paw spring and detent with the cylinder lock detent and spring. Switch them and see if it fixes the issue. The cylinder lock detent and spring are the longer of the two. Also 18 or 22mm trigger springs have been used on the GP depending on when it was made.
Thanks for your reply! I never removed the cylinder lock detent, so I can rule that out. I will try and switch to the factory return spring and see if that helps. Good point, Buck! With vehicles, it is miles, guns rounds! I have been working on firearms for over 40 years and I have been a Machinist for over 40 years as well. I know how things work. Unfortunately I have an issue with something going on here.
You guys rock! Show me that in any manufactures website or manual. I would really like to see the basis of your assertion. That was speaking figuritively, John. I did however compliment Buck on suggesting to 1st switch back to the factory spring. You are correct that I should have taken more time to expand on my thoughts. However, if there is any questionable risks and one does not feel comfortable, he or she should STOP and seek out a gunsmith. I do not claim to have any mad gunsmithing skills.
If something works for me, I am happy to share. I am humbled from all that take their time posting their experiences here. Johnksg Was looking to purchase a RIA and checked out their warranty. They say rounds recommended. Also my JD Gator, had to change oil and filter after the first 8 hours. I switched back to the factory trigger return spring and BAM!
With the polishing, the shims, and the new hammer spring the trigger is very much improved! Much appreciated! Don68 lonewolf was not talking about cars , but the assertion that guns need a round break in period.
Usually you hear something like that from a owner. The Armscor manuals do say that…but what does that mean? What actions must the shooter take if any? How does it affect their warantee? All it means is that for the first rounds your parts will be a bit tight and your springs stiff as with any pistol.
There is none of this shoot one clean, shoot two clean, nonsense! PRS shooters do this with precision rifles for about 25 rounds. They also change barrels at the round mark - anyone plan on doing that? Now I am NOT calling out an individual, just a persistent myth and misunderstanding that just will not die.
Like loaded magazines. You are correct! The firearm manuals are vague in their warranty efforts! In my personal belief system many manufacturers did not figure on the scale of which the industry was going to become. A lot of effort to write a bunch of jargon on safety to protect theirselves from lawsuits and of course consumer awareness was a major concern!
Other than the fact that the industry never had any assumption on the growth of the DIY crowd! Ultimately, all shooters are different and expectations vary? I wish that I could give you a more concise answer…. Thanks Goblin. I will give that a try. Johnksg That was speaking figuritively, John. Johnksg You are correct! It was not my question…you made the statement. Let me now ask you a simple question, and try to give a straightforward answer if you can.
Its a simple question…just list the steps for me since I do not know.
Ruger Gp100 Ibok
Its robust desgn evoved from the oder Securty-Sx seres. The GP has a arger frame, thcker cynder, mproved grp mountng system, trgger return sprng, front sght, nterna cynder retaner, and trgger guard atch. Design: Ruger engneers dd an exceent ob desgnng the GP Most of the parts are contaned by push-out pns or sprng-oaded pungers and a mere 3 screws. The desgn s a moduar concept wth three man assembes.
Today I was off from work and decided to do some work on my Ruger GP I bought this last year and haven't had the motivation to work on it until today. I bought it from Davidson's Firearms GunGenie. When I was at the FFL taking possession of it I tried to field strip it and the parts were jammed up because of all the rough machining and lack of attention to detail. It actually jammed up from dry firing it and when I tried to field strip it, I couldn't get it apart. The FFL offered to send it back but I persevered and got it apart.
Posted: Thu Nov 29, pm. Iowegan: Thank you so much! I received the GP pdf this morning. Very useful information. You do this forum wonders. Here is a general question, what is a good polishing compound to use.