PT2272 PDF

The receiver provides 4 channel Momentary outputs. All outputs are TTL level can be interface with other circuits or relay board. Transmitter works with 5V to 12V DC. Receiver works with 5V DC. It is important to have same jumper settings J1-J8 at transmitter and receiver to pair both. Multiple remote can be used to control devices at same location by changing the address codes.

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They are commonly used in inexpensive wireless devices to control garage doors, fans, toys and even some alarm systems. There are several versions of these chips, identified by different suffixes, that pass through different amounts of data 2 to 6 or even no data at all, as well as latched or momentary data presentation.

The 4 data bits remain latched in their last state. The more data that is presented, the fewer address leads there are. Each address lead is tri-state — high, low or floating. For example, if the uses a 4. The title of this post indicates an Arduino compatible solution that uses this integrated circuit. The SCT4 is a toggle version of the that toggles its data outputs rather than presenting the state of the data bits.

Only SilvanChip makes the toggle version of the This same R06A is also available with the momentary M or latched L versions yet, ironically, the board designation of R06A remains the same. Amazingly, as this was written, Alibaba.

This particular keychain fob uses a PT instead of a PT but they are functionally equivalent. See Figure 5, below. The PT must match the addresses in two pulse trains to its own address, to accept. One bit is represented by 32 clock cycles. Refer to Figure 7, below to see the pulse widths that represent each value. Thus, one individual twelve bit packet is clock cycles long and the IC sends four repeats. See Figure 8, below. The physical test arrangement is shown in Figure 9, below.

A YouTube video of my test is at the link below. HI, nice job. Another question is how to transform the On-Off behaviour in momentary behaviour. I hope you have some suggestion to help me. Like Like. It seems that you want to know the maximum rate that you can transmit data frames. If so, then the data rate is a factor of the clock frequency. At this point it is only about 6 inches. Your receiver was delivered without an antenna.

Mine certainly lacked an antenna when delivered. You must solder on an antenna wire. Notice the copper colored coiled wire that is visible in my photo.

There is an antenna on the PCB already. It was coiled up. I have tried it coiled and as a straight wire. It is about 11 inches long. Does nto seem to matter if it is coiled or straight. I suspect that your unit has a problem — I can use mine well over 50 feet, maybe more range not really tested. Since you do have a receiver antenna, either the transmitter or receiver may be tuned slightly off frequency or otherwise defective. You may want to open up the fob and verify that its antenna has a good connection, is not shorted, etc.

I had the same problem, I resolved it by feeding it from the arduino instead of directly from the battery. Line of sight range was tested up to 50 meters with transmitter antenna fully extended, maybe it goes further still…. Hi Thanks for your great post.

I have a question about the latched version of the decoder. What does it mean? I would need to find a cheap wireless relay which is not toggle or momentary. To be controlled by the MCU, we would need one key for relay on, another key for relay off. Do you know if that exists?

If I understand your application you want a remote relay to be controlled by a microcontroller MCU over wireless. You want the relay to be wirelessly operated or released via commands from the MCU.

If I understand you correctly, you want the relay to stay in the desired state until it receives another command to change states. If my assumption is correct, then what I would build a relay board with a wireless receiver that used a PTL latching chip. Pressing any other key A,B, or C would drive data bit 1 low, releasing the relay.

I understand you idea. Looking at ebay sellers, they have different terms for such features like : toggle: self-locking latch: interlock momentary: no locking. This feature is useful if you want to control window rolling shutters. Could you please confirm or infirm this? The Chinese version of English is difficult to understand.

However, there are only three possible modes — 1 momentary; 2 latched and 3 toggle, The eBay seller seems to indicate that the device can be set to three different modes so it appears that you can select to whichever works best for you. Check the links in the earlier posts — I fixed them. For rolling shutters, to me at least, momentary would seem the best mode — active only while the button is pressed.

I wrote about my tests on the Arduino forum but not on this blog. Am unfamiliar with logging and dislaying or even scrolling a small log on arduino lcd.

Do you have a schematic of how you connected to which arduino pins and lcd and receiver wiring? I am a complete newbie sorry. Really want to log the wireless detections and maybe ad a real time clock to log time too.. Unless power loss is a big concern, why not just use software timing? The arduino has k of internal memory which would be ample for logging the last say 10 detected events.

Any references or ideas to recording and displaying past events on the lcd from its k memory would be interesting without going to sd cards or using a laptop. I see on the back of it it has an 8 pin surface mount chip, lm? Any idea what that is doing? I want to run the arduino and R06a from batteries — always on. Need to measure how much current r06a and arduino is drawing.

I examined the chip on the back of my R06A. The schematic in figure 6 shows that it is an LM I can find no IC matching these markings. In any case, your real concern is the current draw. Quiescent operation of a Arduino Duemilanove is reported as Add to that additional current sourced by active ports. I suspect that an Arduino mini will have the lowest current draw. To accurately determine your power supply needs you will need to put an ammeter in series with the power supply to your project.

From what I understand, this is a big limitation when using the hardware decoder, as the decoder is setup for a single address.

If you want to handle multiple sensors with multiple addresses, you need the rcswitch software version. I will look into rcswitch libraries for decoding diff addresses — would save a little current doing it that way too.. The power led on my arduino uno board is drawing most of the current, will have to desolder it. Also need to figure out how much power the usb interface is wasting. How does the reciever identify the transmitter, in other words if I had another MHz Keychain fob would this receiver decode that signal?

All in-range devices receive the message but only the device whose address matches A will accept the data digits, D and present them as valid output. There are different versions that configure the 12 digits differently with more or less address or data bits. Fewer address bits more data, less address bits, less data. Eight address digits and Four data digits is the most common. So this mean only one transmitter can work with this receiver which is pre hard coded? Thanks for the quick response Only one transmitter at a time.

Since it is a single frequency multiple transmitters sending simultaneous bursts would collide and corrupt each other. Only in the most casual fashion. Without extending the pull-out antenna I tested it 50 feet away within my home, through multiple walls. I suspect, but have not tested, that extending the antenna would enable or more feet and maybe further with a clear line-of-sight. It was not stable for more than 1 meter. It was bright for less than 1 meter ,but after 1 meter it was blinking.

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